The fancy places I get to see: Mei Mansion in Beijing
The house/courtyard in the Hutong (lit.: alley) area near Tiananmen Square was originally the residence of a princess /concubine during the Qing dynasty. Later, after it was transformed into a restaurant, it became the favorite hangout of Mei Lanfang, a famous Chinese Opera singer and artist who played exclusively women’s roles. The restaurant is full with nostalgic items from that era: gramophones, photographs of Mei in his costume, or surrounded by English diplomats, old radios playing his squeaky high-pitched arias, hand-drawn rickshaws. The menu is hand-drawn in Chinese calligraphy on a paper fan.
Here is what Timeout tells the tourists: “One of the greatest Peking opera singers in modern history, Mei Lanfang elevated the art to the world stage. He was also noted for his epicurean tastes, and held a deep respect for simple flavours, seasonality and quality ingredients. An ode to the performer’s culinary persona is found today in an elegant 200-year-old Houhai courtyard, as converted by Mei’s son. Stage costumes and old photos are scattered throughout. Inside, a spectacular array of dishes is carefully prepared by a fourth-generation successor of Mei’s personal chef. The recipes are all the singer’s favourites, from red-braised pork to lightly sautéed crystal shrimp. There is no menu; the chef decides what to serve based on what’s fresh and in-season at market that day. Our advice is to call ahead to book a private Peking opera performance in the courtyard with your dinner – and make sure to ask for a guided tour through the courtyard’s rooms and artifacts.”
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